朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlyUvolZO56
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoIX4PtALVr
「這麼早？」旭仔問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjcXs9spXg6
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6KTq7t9GMe
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMrnWpTZKtw
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDw3s9BRs6W
「是啊，要趕路了。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfLuA9ioVIH
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡe5BeJfVNaB
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpUYB4PJRuw
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQVnwPADbPz
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs1jad9E3wZ
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqZ6vLyBUip
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUCRxkotKRe
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsBN9uob9Hj
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOVrLb6tzMO
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡG5Ce0EMsnl
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4HaOWTTOnd
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfyNmvYrUr1
「謝謝你。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDhWIY9OXUk
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡejJDi4zud8
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLgij4tN5Qu
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqA5cOm7SA9
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8KdD4FGfq6
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPkHpysd4WW
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTKwO7saGTP
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaJ4dcXzHbq
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVG5XNWl8Wp
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKlzxPkKHe2
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBL1nQWk3At
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBN4wt7HpB9
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJidQ3hTIYy
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNcTehsTAgV
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmFc5m3DHbd
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ52P9EHJi1f
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6yF9UEdhK5
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6N1WCu4peD
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7CzLKODbRZ
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvLcOXfaRx1
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIYehPqu4xM
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFKZ6PLh34f
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0bv1ImQ73w
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡO12JlkSGEb
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYvAb55aC3r
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFMApWviHCW
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNmeqxa32FS
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ2HFjInSuk
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOZdsBkrbxf
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIX4fl2Jbyk
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqH4SOqwphQ
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqgF1hisBsd
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPhetcygtDK
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZO6GMah2yn
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeTfstgroNQ
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIhAXp9enXJ
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIduD8vbwQE
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOtO7a4M7bE
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYF2kixKBI9
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCnCDHPrThb
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡixpEtbtyiY
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDo0YUqL5Am
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeXcuk1w1OI
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8I1NhyjngG
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlslW2pMNjk
「是的。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0U7fMGeqbl
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBrjJJ1Nrkc
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQB86GZkWhP
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHKNPG8dtSR
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtNdY1qgGNJ
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWIvSs4HmH8
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8FDybo6fBB
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0XejW3yhUu
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡou2Fp2vYBo
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNHPu77NBkm
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnASHrnbufH
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4zLBE3CbUD
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlg98ycU8Tu
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBdSY3maqMX
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiQ1JqhBYl0
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC7adJWymH7
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡs4o8CWZOQD
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFrlLHuSgwI
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwiFtq30hZ6
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKN9cD49pId
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLcbyZMVqZj
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0PcTNkrHd2
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlqaWcrWWqw
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfsyD0F8t1Q
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt8FPQQXRXn
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXt1IPIWC9o
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVT0OlUnwFx
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfXPTBLGqjl
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡS5YrCy2O86
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCJ8SjfyijE
「太好了！」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHWXBF7BFy1
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrWNRtT6uOA
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyGhUlQDkQy
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡl8lo4IfSQQ
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDcceMFsoHn
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxaCfw2dRFd
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlWfV3QS3JP
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZt8IhT1IyW
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr8iaR3Iwm0
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5Wes7t736k
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡREMnhX3oJI
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpLOmj37vLg
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCSlb6jfbmG
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZfrHY5hL6U
「好。」旭仔答。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSZ4Nt9tWJZ
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡANOB4aPVvm
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvhWtpEfUex
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3FasHBXOlR
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEK6OvrWGDe
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5hZ4N72EVP
旭仔淺嘗一口。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxkYejWuSyO
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEFCmS4jpHq
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3nvG6DLue4
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf1VKVmmKW2
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOiGQjGBLOY
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQdIvaUzEka
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVcj2qVNyS2
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGtwR2aI9w2
「好喝。」旭仔答。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7yaTiv5uXR
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJMsTaVjWi9
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbJHRcKQ59g
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0ZbbGwRtON
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8WHDB4oZnt
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEkZRJknFWf
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGNodlAGmqV
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡp63RRKpgmq
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡF9b6Ybl34f
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7AnIddn16S
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhyDn9NkFQJ
然後按「加至主畫面」