朝早八點,天色漸光,旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳,就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。782Please respect copyright.PENANAAuPf2NQtxz
782Please respect copyright.PENANAJLybM5JiO2
「這麼早?」旭仔問。782Please respect copyright.PENANA811934srOw
782Please respect copyright.PENANARi8WPTzCt9
「你不也挺早的嗎?要走了嗎?」782Please respect copyright.PENANA7WlWg12iMT
782Please respect copyright.PENANAEhqz4csycc
「是啊,要趕路了。」782Please respect copyright.PENANA5DdKRt4qZF
782Please respect copyright.PENANAOqEfGTLJ6p
「就不多留一天嗎?我們今天要去松贊林寺看看,一起去嘛。」782Please respect copyright.PENANAJXz50h1Ccz
782Please respect copyright.PENANAeItcwGvMeh
「不了,我的目標是布達拉宮。」782Please respect copyright.PENANACgbrdVBxOD
782Please respect copyright.PENANADEVQUCuUVc
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊!」782Please respect copyright.PENANAOuBqx13qGY
782Please respect copyright.PENANA2GTfRt4J2r
「我想早點到拉薩,不想浪費太多時間在路上。」782Please respect copyright.PENANAI8fkH5Fggi
782Please respect copyright.PENANA8Ydergg9q9
「既然你這麼說,就不為難你了,一路順風啊旭仔。」782Please respect copyright.PENANAd7aAlaXVxt
782Please respect copyright.PENANAIRWjsQl4bG
「謝謝你。」782Please respect copyright.PENANACqrKLey8Ei
782Please respect copyright.PENANAZDtjzd7Si9
782Please respect copyright.PENANA6otCHVWvOW
一離開香格里拉縣城,就開始上斜,上斜冇幾耐之後,又落斜,呢個時候旭仔望向右邊,喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築,估計就係松贊林寺。782Please respect copyright.PENANAb7VsfheVzx
782Please respect copyright.PENANAqo0TeSU2Dj
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海,據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊,但而家灰灰黃黃噉,連湖水都黑黑哋,只覺一片死寂。782Please respect copyright.PENANAFAnQC0TpHW
782Please respect copyright.PENANAlfpkOTJ3hu
繼續爬山,爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口,接住落嚟係一路爽落斜,落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親,然後一路滑行而下。782Please respect copyright.PENANATWDLkMEh25
782Please respect copyright.PENANArX0YX3g3b6
落山嘅時候,偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過,司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗,唔該小心駕駛。782Please respect copyright.PENANAm5ZUjxiJYJ
782Please respect copyright.PENANAgzeL2DgrgJ
滑行咗好一段時間,終於到一個觀景區,呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。782Please respect copyright.PENANAW1uL7k7f5g
782Please respect copyright.PENANA0Z4XAfWXsW
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景,有啲係坐旅遊巴,有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔,就湧哂過去搵佢合照,於是旭仔變成人肉景點。782Please respect copyright.PENANAl7hchw5hWR
782Please respect copyright.PENANAXL6u533vho
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江,結果變咗人肉景點,旭仔就講聲要趕路,擺脫咗呢班人,繼續落山。782Please respect copyright.PENANAQOSh7bXCzi
782Please respect copyright.PENANAMeVOvekZWT
一路落斜到一條村仔,見到路旁有間餐廳,就停落嚟,食咗碗藏麵,又繼續上路。782Please respect copyright.PENANAezkf4lYoly
782Please respect copyright.PENANAs9ehaK9LIk
然後終於到金沙江,呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多,但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量,好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災,唔可以輕視。782Please respect copyright.PENANAykLXRGcldm
782Please respect copyright.PENANAQPYYFI7c5g
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩,兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生,甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石,好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟,雖然係冬季,卻感覺炎熱。782Please respect copyright.PENANAudFCAjsRgy
782Please respect copyright.PENANAznDgtgersl
一路踩到奔子欄鎮,又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳,食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右,旭仔望住遠方嘅山路,跟住落嚟就要爬上去。782Please respect copyright.PENANAgjCgA0GI22
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿,但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村,聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話,更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山,唯有頂硬上。782Please respect copyright.PENANAqlxnXZRImg
782Please respect copyright.PENANAipQ5IsD5dk
爬山爬到半路,旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩,心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水,但冇人理會佢,唯有繼續忍耐到目的地,冇辦法。782Please respect copyright.PENANAM2kD44mitN
782Please respect copyright.PENANA4BzSfkEKCM
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰,估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建,整個小村莊就建喺山腰上,呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。782Please respect copyright.PENANAsfDlM3fGhf
782Please respect copyright.PENANAEta3qiSsOO
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺,寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光,閃爍耀眼,極為美麗。782Please respect copyright.PENANAGI5465I5Iv
782Please respect copyright.PENANArhhhURmr7l
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方,但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲,都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。782Please respect copyright.PENANAgNwwarIO2r
782Please respect copyright.PENANA8m7LYVY9q7
冇幾耐,天色漸黑。為咗安全,騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車,旭仔亦知道呢點,於是加緊腳步。782Please respect copyright.PENANAx2Xg8zluCf
782Please respect copyright.PENANAA2i5H1aUXQ
踩下踩下,見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅,外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。782Please respect copyright.PENANAgoHyqZ6Ezu
782Please respect copyright.PENANADV56n6OOqf
旭仔從門口走進客棧,地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層,牆壁上寫滿字,都係經過呢度嘅人留低。782Please respect copyright.PENANAPwZDDR661Q
782Please respect copyright.PENANAEPnSTF8jZp
「有人嗎?」旭仔叫。782Please respect copyright.PENANAmst3tzIald
782Please respect copyright.PENANAh42k5er47b
一時間冇人回應,旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言,其中一條留言令佢注視良久,嗰條留言寫住:「希望順利騎到哥本哈根!—Jason上—14.2.2012」782Please respect copyright.PENANAtRiQH6upI9
782Please respect copyright.PENANAKA7JT5UGwM
正睇得入神,突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲,一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟,向旭仔問:「要住宿嗎?」782Please respect copyright.PENANAApyNOI7OeU
「是的。」782Please respect copyright.PENANAjEduEsxzKI
782Please respect copyright.PENANAue2oUhWm65
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了,拿行李跟我上來吧。」782Please respect copyright.PENANANv6t9rGngw
782Please respect copyright.PENANA1CeulmfADg
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車,帶上所有行李,跟住藏人男子到樓上。782Please respect copyright.PENANA8MJYT5mrPN
782Please respect copyright.PENANAWslyKohV9B
「抱歉,因為這些日子騎車的人比較少,沒想到這時間還有人來,沒讓你等很久吧?」藏族男子問。782Please respect copyright.PENANAsO7G84qSMx
782Please respect copyright.PENANAsluLVPTCMD
「沒關係,沒有等很久。」782Please respect copyright.PENANAlQRS9RmDDw
782Please respect copyright.PENANAk6niFQ6Wi0
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間,同旭仔講:「這個就是你住的房間,先把行李放好吧,我們待會就吃飯了,你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」782Please respect copyright.PENANAYHRs58Dkfd
782Please respect copyright.PENANAMMHcScnYMF
間單人房只有一張床,望落去算乾淨。782Please respect copyright.PENANA7bMCTSjVoK
782Please respect copyright.PENANA1e1hgwiC6t
「好的,謝謝。」旭仔回應。782Please respect copyright.PENANAF33eq7e5VR
782Please respect copyright.PENANAd5bEU16KvQ
上到三樓,見到藏人男子坐喺地板,身前有張矮檯,佢招招手叫旭仔過去。782Please respect copyright.PENANA9wT2e6tgUT
782Please respect copyright.PENANA2iJ5ueJ8ls
「兄弟,我應該怎麼稱呼你?」藏人男子問。782Please respect copyright.PENANA2tUXslpU9Z
782Please respect copyright.PENANAlpqNytuzMC
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」782Please respect copyright.PENANALlbdNlDDwj
782Please respect copyright.PENANAs45lCcubdQ
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次,然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎?你是我們今天唯一的客人。」782Please respect copyright.PENANA7yjVbWzFnC
782Please respect copyright.PENANAgKKIoZ5AlW
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣,就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放,自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿,自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。782Please respect copyright.PENANA3Q6cRho0TE
782Please respect copyright.PENANAmnfs4RVRuG
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。782Please respect copyright.PENANAqBAYsWmIQI
782Please respect copyright.PENANAcT7Gl7IN91
「騎車騎了一整天,一定很餓了吧?很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。782Please respect copyright.PENANAX9ri6ABqvr
782Please respect copyright.PENANAuw4buXhDAT
「太好了!」782Please respect copyright.PENANAJOeTpNShmH
782Please respect copyright.PENANAxbuQqWZ9MP
冇耐,一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟,然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望,分別係青椒炒牛肉,薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋,都係啲家常中菜,大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。782Please respect copyright.PENANA7ZcJHnuv19
782Please respect copyright.PENANAY8D5LWVuaA
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。782Please respect copyright.PENANAq7lSFoeSgy
782Please respect copyright.PENANAdU9bC0iPU5
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境,皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑,但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天,眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。782Please respect copyright.PENANAhS5qwxUWAp
782Please respect copyright.PENANAnVPPAcSHp8
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼,然後話:「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。782Please respect copyright.PENANAh5MZ7AxYqn
782Please respect copyright.PENANAYxABxQusYR
經過一整日嘅騎行,即使只係家常便菜,食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。782Please respect copyright.PENANAaqWldTON2e
782Please respect copyright.PENANA5iw9AAshAI
「要喝點酒嗎?」等旭仔食完飯,桑吉問。782Please respect copyright.PENANAJrDpX9GZvE
782Please respect copyright.PENANAUDUd9G5anu
「好。」旭仔答。782Please respect copyright.PENANA17CJfickuF
782Please respect copyright.PENANAEssb8XI6AG
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。782Please respect copyright.PENANAWe4zG79huR
782Please respect copyright.PENANAAXsbTbzihJ
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的,就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀,你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話,一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。782Please respect copyright.PENANA78ew8UFJeO
782Please respect copyright.PENANABzVofbpfaD
旭仔淺嘗一口。782Please respect copyright.PENANAz6bDqyGAhU
782Please respect copyright.PENANAAcb1oFg5M1
「可以嗎這個酒?」桑吉問。782Please respect copyright.PENANAAlwtudBmyF
782Please respect copyright.PENANAzHxhDsJpq3
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒,其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒,都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品,葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面,都係酸酸苦苦噉。782Please respect copyright.PENANAvcRA6rxwIc
782Please respect copyright.PENANAvUXnFIRhRj
但係呢杯酒,係酸同苦之外,旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。782Please respect copyright.PENANAsGuH6g4T9h
782Please respect copyright.PENANA7K5srMomFM
「好喝。」旭仔答。782Please respect copyright.PENANA94wTfMfBiP
782Please respect copyright.PENANAMPuWT65iAT
旭仔望出窗外,只見一輪明月高高掛起,月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。782Please respect copyright.PENANA1zJy0usJok
782Please respect copyright.PENANAGGiJOq49It
桑吉同旭仔講,每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山,仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險,啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬,感覺只要一失足,就會跌落萬丈深淵。782Please respect copyright.PENANABl4O1SDsv3
782Please respect copyright.PENANAZz22a1QiOv
兩人舉杯暢談一陣,旭仔覺得係時候去休息,就問︰「對了,這裡能洗熱水澡嗎?」782Please respect copyright.PENANAVTCbvVUlSh
782Please respect copyright.PENANA3RVzAczTsN
「對不起啊!前段日子這邊下雪,熱水管被弄壞了,現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點,路上可能還有積雪。」782Please respect copyright.PENANAt9emkaDJrw
782Please respect copyright.PENANAH30eoj2bFT
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼,今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。782Please respect copyright.PENANAAEcT8JnL91


