朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE71461nDv6
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcMzVwX1fSc
「這麼早？」旭仔問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtnbUboJ6FF
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcfUluf8PiM
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡz5L7KLIwIW
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6Yp87QAxPB
「是啊，要趕路了。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJT9QtXJQeZ
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCawn9af3cN
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEcx6AMbPRH
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCYk6u7BEPB
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ398X37B9e
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEfWGXxJYjk
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHSWm4s5otz
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOgdHCi7qRm
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtOVrr4YkUw
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIMppuX0bd0
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnk8dXvhN6a
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjag1Q07Ccd
「謝謝你。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4BhTgS3Hws
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXEvR4g5L2N
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwfzxXhGrN0
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQaY871YTII
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8MqsgsMYjz
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZOSqABxYy5
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmzGtZmTPk7
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlpqqYqZI2w
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyasuVaDQgt
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7EyVOn4IQ0
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtrrwWLpszX
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDSaMDy8rDY
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbxBLiVJx6B
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQlQxb0BknI
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡk2mFYXVXQz
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNBrEPUtTln
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2a32OGC28Y
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBvPmgcPUzZ
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiwx5GLldsW
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkc85x4BuhM
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpcND4k02CM
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJ9SAzeZdLi
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzT6QfS6sGy
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhMhSD1nybI
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5ngsKdF4dk
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg5ZL0HCblC
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3fmEYlMN2I
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcBvZKB6Ueh
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ43oVnIdmDM
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK4lW74IYir
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjoQ7r9XgZc
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuWJydQvaH9
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtsn3rLnZ67
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdRsjWWV48x
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZqP6hg8C3H
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ97wgBffiPR
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVALGcyh5pQ
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAdQQ9NcOjH
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡluJS2HrGIY
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡE6F6YBiKCV
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHb292KsK1u
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡA2vsk0bCHO
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcLTEVvbUKs
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwW77fmMZTa
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCUR2HVwC4T
「是的。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRkhmrGW0iy
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVOdIW5zU8d
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHdUtijVxWe
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLl72pVECYn
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPA7SGCQ9fJ
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUXmhPc3KAm
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRIU4oEVEQN
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRWIuFKM0qD
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhPlARWbfQz
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjnwc52f7bc
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoMm1E0aGB8
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFVRvEPqEDF
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYW3yXZe8hP
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAGEdlVykFL
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5IKSNeMpb5
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoESEK7xOnv
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡShFsV4ls0A
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeBHOFMaPpZ
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡArArim6WLT
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRKT3z0PdXr
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7edu3bSvXc
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsoV5RKA9lK
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQ5clXVcmF7
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvXRG33Meuw
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwfpbTfi9k4
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZ2FN3GBWwU
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyj1eUNsbUh
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiRxiYFL7bb
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPyZcXTjAJ3
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv7ACiGLVyG
「太好了！」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0o6NX3HVc6
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡz1KFWkS9mw
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGYJVRk8fQV
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKBa3L59Wsf
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiDXLpwtykM
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaOwTfmeRo0
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtHP7RRr3FH
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJ3P0PL644G
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUNTwrFEFae
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjtRWXLZ1JQ
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKtHptZyRKg
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡR8ajVtBavI
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡunkozx6uDv
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1gK8q9IrS5
「好。」旭仔答。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡItaUDOtC13
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3v64ntZEWo
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsOrRm9o1O0
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwqVkHAJ3FW
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsAeYd2zWv5
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzgTAUjzfSH
旭仔淺嘗一口。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡByFuxvLeVi
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEjjtN4HXug
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjFQ1XPnmr6
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKmYuBZQg0b
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSyv3zE2vOp
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCdE27cJhkH
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDuzbiJqvXB
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ45jcN9iDJ6
「好喝。」旭仔答。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuBO1C7guDJ
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAcFEiCiufi
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNGszPW8WiR
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡesDDHheOj3
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOH52BugQrR
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEURSH0xlTd
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtZur71zmPx
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhIbe2YPT3T
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9SqaYyla9y
575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgVTWq0Qips
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。575Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8twl7yDmDv
然後按「加至主畫面」