朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡL0WoytAai3
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPlyZ2M50j5
「這麼早？」旭仔問。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwKL7L6k8KG
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPGwENObT7Q
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDm08QNinve
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHL6OtPqyYK
「是啊，要趕路了。」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMHEGFevnZH
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWqOe31idYO
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjYmyRwfgI7
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAGZOZ8rC3A
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwC2SrYntm4
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwaaxBezvAr
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7Hz2Wcro7e
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡb2p6Qfyt9B
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEXbRsicJyC
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlLwwH7mNd8
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCGpJisPqqc
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqZ6xucoc4L
「謝謝你。」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEbDVXP63Lg
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAHc3u7UdJc
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdv47jQ95dC
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwytEq2WqS1
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW2Q9cPZlO2
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgpaEfglOCl
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡxl9r81dQI8
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡt4AHz2vHxY
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2xH5hEBFBI
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC6t2w4ALOz
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW9aOn3H7hR
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6digjwhwsj
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGBFMtqWEyy
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡM1FG2japlT
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWVA0qgFI7m
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUVPtGHMxXF
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZCaJqZdgLW
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7xoR2iynyP
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAE1U7BYv45
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7lOgyqdBvq
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjSun7FrZ2U
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZjxyBKXexG
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8JPqW5ZC3d
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRVUT8zcfe9
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMGwFhbF2HL
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡia22W1IQ5L
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡh0wtFuU3zW
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4yQNlNWz1L
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQomzCOl230
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiJrxkkYt6K
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7sLiSUCASP
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6C295yZ0IJ
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHTkRvvPFX2
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZVXaoAWxCE
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXE5SmAxFXr
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9bt4Hk4KQN
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVX8alDPHup
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtGclP2H04g
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXokBZss39x
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡytpuYFRdpa
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡy5YwV9jJc2
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡypVtOpRCIr
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡx44cmES3cv
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNtCq2K4uAI
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZyLvGONClI
「是的。」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡJROG1ZMG0K
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ16ZU20lzx8
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRKhB97yxyH
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPDQt2JBZyg
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2s8xAYwhTW
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWl6AHSx6vO
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsmrGupP7ja
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiiuzan91Ub
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsxzK3gtzxI
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡC2hUewP7OF
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg2mTmJTyGo
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRfodF89pjG
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ20YtIaM2YC
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNr9ufNCKQh
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ92MzJd34IE
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVYPMMlnACo
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv2OFSK4u1u
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡU0pO9LIik0
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdz14L6APlL
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8Wmu2GsrH7
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡI8O6F62jfp
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡi81mFMYkHf
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrSlJlj5lcM
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCDMafWahI5
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiWNIZt5LOn
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡc13WX5errG
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡl16ExJKKeQ
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3hBXcXphj5
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAsGnjtzytn
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsf9e8sAMRu
「太好了！」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpJrRJh5HWb
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡuOuj2aDhcY
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNz0W0zCz7Z
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW8Im0nHIWq
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡLwQApLuB03
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡltZQo4brWr
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrZrQmuCdA9
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡqDGFzqEGqA
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbX4hDpvQMu
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡW8GpLg0lYz
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGtjZyATCSC
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGVgZPhV51J
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzG1q8CDFv3
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡISKJAOE6cK
「好。」旭仔答。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnY8aDf03kH
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ894vaHMdep
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXviilBCRei
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZkDHqWfzrw
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡy4dI6PMrmZ
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡESQNjBLtyo
旭仔淺嘗一口。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡH1mBY9YFq8
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡv5KWtdKOC8
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkWFQFmeqiZ
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡozvhmHSkGh
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTUaCJFJ7CN
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgYMvZxaL9k
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOqWWzGumi7
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnt8e2uxXMT
「好喝。」旭仔答。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡf3VZQIiLLZ
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDlaSR1IE5S
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGmvYMzbLhl
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡQqFdt0b9hN
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZx3pc5EvGe
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWVHYFrOAkK
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ240Ors2ZT3
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOd11Q47Zbf
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡKuTNvoU3En
494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhRfJVRAM35
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。494Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbo8yYQdpAl
然後按「加至主畫面」