朝早八點，天色漸光，旭仔已經收拾好行李準備出發。一行落大廳，就見到秀英一個坐响度飲茶。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhrQuRk0GFO
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡcV95jm35PD
「這麼早？」旭仔問。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡsBbT74b6Ff
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡycLYYtLuA3
「你不也挺早的嗎？要走了嗎？」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtImVKytqHE
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtWSjGZfUoQ
「是啊，要趕路了。」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡchpy4YFSk5
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbjKGWXqnGL
「就不多留一天嗎？我們今天要去松贊林寺看看，一起去嘛。」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIwbHCqla3D
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡZIVeBssHiD
「不了，我的目標是布達拉宮。」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡFCbO6GboPV
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmA5WaumbXi
「再留一天也不妨礙你到布達拉宮啊！」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlRPZndTQ6H
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡOS75xt7QHS
「我想早點到拉薩，不想浪費太多時間在路上。」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡppeuDmliXN
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡS2cb0KytQe
「既然你這麼說，就不為難你了，一路順風啊旭仔。」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡipw4ofhxIi
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBkqZffwcwx
「謝謝你。」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgPWLG9n854
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSo6uwoaFLo
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡK2hbtticIE
一離開香格里拉縣城，就開始上斜，上斜冇幾耐之後，又落斜，呢個時候旭仔望向右邊，喺霧裡隱約見到幾座巨大嘅建築，估計就係松贊林寺。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvmPV8kxnlQ
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡu4LF4E9QxO
跟住踩咗陣就到納帕海，據聞納帕海係一片美麗嘅草原同湖泊，但而家灰灰黃黃噉，連湖水都黑黑哋，只覺一片死寂。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMJENuSkQBk
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaCmGnUMZsQ
繼續爬山，爬咗大概六公里到納帕海山口，接住落嚟係一路爽落斜，落到金沙江。旭仔著好防風外套以免冷親，然後一路滑行而下。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4ovI0T5I14
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRa5qTy52Lu
落山嘅時候，偶然會有車輛喺旭仔旁邊經過，司機都會一面好奇噉裝下旭仔。旭仔見到只係心諗，唔該小心駕駛。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoTpCmP8cIr
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaIiiONlHNY
滑行咗好一段時間，終於到一個觀景區，呢度可以睇到山下面嘅金沙江。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmVuUUGDq0z
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ8uFaMyvyZj
有一大班遊客早已企哂喺度觀景，有啲係坐旅遊巴，有啲就揸車嚟。佢哋見到旭仔，就湧哂過去搵佢合照，於是旭仔變成人肉景點。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡpt8DZ1w5FD
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkZIotOz4Ou
本來想喺度好好噉睇下個金沙江，結果變咗人肉景點，旭仔就講聲要趕路，擺脫咗呢班人，繼續落山。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtIhrlt3zgi
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjd3Ku32RKX
一路落斜到一條村仔，見到路旁有間餐廳，就停落嚟，食咗碗藏麵，又繼續上路。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjmdfsA23XC
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlGobArXMmT
然後終於到金沙江，呢個時候金沙江嘅水流量比夏季少好多，但你仍然感受到江水嗰股強大嘅力量，好似上萬隻馬喺度奔騰一樣。夏季嗰時金沙江間有洪災，唔可以輕視。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡyFeBBXG1lt
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRc5GC7k2Gs
沿住泥綠色嘅金沙江一路踩，兩邊嘅山崖寸草不生，甚至完全光脫脫露出火紅嘅岩石，好似身處火星一樣。太陽照射落嚟，雖然係冬季，卻感覺炎熱。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrmaXPCJ0NC
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡRfkmpJeiFQ
一路踩到奔子欄鎮，又喺路邊隨便搵間餐廳，食咗個炒飯。食完飯大概三點鐘左右，旭仔望住遠方嘅山路，跟住落嚟就要爬上去。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPmt0S3fQrK
雖然今日可以選擇喺奔子欄留宿，但如果今日唔趕到半山嘅書松村，聽日爬白馬雪山就更困難。萬一天氣惡劣嘅話，更有可能一日都翻唔過白馬雪山，唯有頂硬上。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡVQxDHQB51D
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡmfIE1crFOu
爬山爬到半路，旭仔發覺水樽已經滴水不剩，心諗早知啱啱食完飯裝多啲水。旭仔嘗試截停路過嘅車輛問司機攞水，但冇人理會佢，唯有繼續忍耐到目的地，冇辦法。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1YThDXqOKt
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ4279ytvi1S
踩下踩下見到前面一座寺廟就建喺山腰，估計就係東竹林寺。一啲屋仔圍住寺廟而建，整個小村莊就建喺山腰上，呢啲大概係西藏獨有嘅景觀。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIkSATd5DIF
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1ifFxGLVK8
黃昏嘅日光照射住東竹林寺，寺廟嘅金頂反射陽光，閃爍耀眼，極為美麗。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGVRBd43G3F
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡd4lnWkxusk
喺東竹林寺呢條村莊應該都有住宿嘅地方，但為咗聽日爬山舒服一啲，都係再踩一段到前面嘅書松村。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzEzz3KZdl4
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡj12xJcakTf
冇幾耐，天色漸黑。為咗安全，騎行者應該盡量避免天黑踩車，旭仔亦知道呢點，於是加緊腳步。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNQITsmsdVF
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6rms6CI76J
踩下踩下，見到路邊有座三層高嘅藏式大宅，外面掛有牌匾寫住「滇藏客棧」四個大字。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡo0nFq9HEae
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNNAn43bbK4
旭仔從門口走進客棧，地面只有三面牆同一條樓梯通往上層，牆壁上寫滿字，都係經過呢度嘅人留低。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡXeLf1VTnwf
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDqeQYPJ7DF
「有人嗎？」旭仔叫。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡybrUL3PAlX
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡdcip6DfaZ6
一時間冇人回應，旭仔就到牆壁旁邊睇下啲留言，其中一條留言令佢注視良久，嗰條留言寫住：「希望順利騎到哥本哈根！—Jason上—14.2.2012」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡkw9oeGDfCQ
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡr37Nmrh5oU
正睇得入神，突然聽到木樓梯傳嚟腳步聲，一個藏人男子慢慢行落嚟，向旭仔問：「要住宿嗎？」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡBpuCPmiYbS
「是的。」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡT9XL3rECeK
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtmUSLzw30y
「車子放在這裡鎖住就好了，拿行李跟我上來吧。」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ6m6qdQeXW5
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgCkF3jM6uz
「好。」於是旭仔鎖好單車，帶上所有行李，跟住藏人男子到樓上。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡaZb4HbfMy5
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzvQDWzYPnK
「抱歉，因為這些日子騎車的人比較少，沒想到這時間還有人來，沒讓你等很久吧？」藏族男子問。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUUZ1RLOU3b
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡvw5Xk59VC8
「沒關係，沒有等很久。」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeAByJVUxot
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIz8bLe44c1
藏人男子將旭仔帶到二樓嘅房間，同旭仔講：「這個就是你住的房間，先把行李放好吧，我們待會就吃飯了，你等一下上來三樓吃飯吧。」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡSZ1t5KIJLI
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnDVDk6IAdX
間單人房只有一張床，望落去算乾淨。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡhUmD966gzj
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrnhkW5nFQb
「好的，謝謝。」旭仔回應。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7gbUneu9SK
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡoKb0YVsUyG
上到三樓，見到藏人男子坐喺地板，身前有張矮檯，佢招招手叫旭仔過去。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡlHa8Pv1t4g
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbpUwfDLvmP
「兄弟，我應該怎麼稱呼你？」藏人男子問。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiYHiSAIYJ5
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡj9zwv2xsof
「叫我旭仔就可以了。」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡagojRWpYPr
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡg7gBqRCo1W
「旭仔。」藏人男子重覆講咗次，然後話︰「我叫桑吉。旭仔你知道嗎？你是我們今天唯一的客人。」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ77NAnxejn2
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡitI2UzGLyi
旭仔頭先喺樓下入嚟嗰陣，就注意到地面冇其他單車擺放，自駕遊嘅話一般唔會選擇喺呢度留宿，自己就理所當然成為唯一嘅客人。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ0LLhw9elbB
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjZP0uior9S
「我感到榮幸。」旭仔話。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjIICXZOYsI
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡI2fY4KU0VB
「騎車騎了一整天，一定很餓了吧？很快就有飯吃了。」桑吉話。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrqb8Mlbv3o
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCsydW7NAr3
「太好了！」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡHq1F8w13cv
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡIJcJ8Me9LB
冇耐，一個藏人女子喺廚房攞咗煲飯出嚟，然後又攞咗幾道菜放喺枱面。旭仔望望，分別係青椒炒牛肉，薯仔絲炒牛肉仲有蕃茄炒蛋，都係啲家常中菜，大概係為咗迎合客人口味而整。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3Mfv4NWsHL
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡot3tIuERtH
「這個是我妹卓瑪。」桑吉向旭仔介紹。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡgG1mqfGQsO
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡwi2Lsi6N7Q
旭仔第一次咁近距離觀察一個藏人女子—大概因為長期處於高紫外線同乾燥嘅環境，皮膚睇起嚟有啲粗糙同黝黑，但笑起嚟好開朗好樂天，眼神有種堅韌嘅生命力。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡAcdMWgqUWv
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡbqXqC8uuVa
「你好。」旭仔輕輕打聲招呼，然後話：「我不客氣了。」就扒起飯嚟食。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDzpzIJrPCW
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡzd67k81ctd
經過一整日嘅騎行，即使只係家常便菜，食起嚟都感覺係只應天上有嘅美食。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡMvLIeNBXbm
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡYPXkxpwNxQ
「要喝點酒嗎？」等旭仔食完飯，桑吉問。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWnyiK5ljnw
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiuT8Y1cACW
「好。」旭仔答。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ5JTFIxAOOk
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡUjfdfb5Bsk
然後桑吉唔知响邊度拎咗個陶瓷嘅酒瓶出嚟。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡiARLZXNzXc
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ1OvFKS9g7C
「這個葡萄酒是我們自己釀的，就用種在下面奔子欄的葡萄釀，你嚐一下。」桑吉語帶自豪噉話，一邊講一邊幫旭仔斟酒。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ7ha2yQ6UjL
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtjSs0U7zvJ
旭仔淺嘗一口。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ2GlZ2z2Dwo
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡrqBptDLOwa
「可以嗎這個酒？」桑吉問。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡPLxiXzGHBY
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡnvkVKPttU9
對於點樣先算係好飲嘅葡萄酒，其實旭仔都完全冇概念。旭仔以前飲過嘅葡萄酒，都係啲喺超市買返嚟嘅廉價品，葡萄酒喺佢腦海嘅記憶入面，都係酸酸苦苦噉。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡTng86JUzaL
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡGJtjpc7BvG
但係呢杯酒，係酸同苦之外，旭仔仲能夠品嚐出葡萄本身應有嘅甜味。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡjmgtZjt1dG
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ9ZxFTuf7Hw
「好喝。」旭仔答。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡtqr2M7T0pV
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡ3vaaOMsT8b
旭仔望出窗外，只見一輪明月高高掛起，月光勾勒出山野高低起伏嘅輪廓。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡfv5OKGTcLc
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡckS3KJzAQn
桑吉同旭仔講，每年都會有嚟自西藏各地嘅藏人到梅里雪山轉山，仲畀旭仔睇咗啲相片。從相片睇嚟十分驚險，啲藏人喺極狹窄嘅山路攀爬，感覺只要一失足，就會跌落萬丈深淵。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡEJd579m7ek
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡWFUqFVhfx9
兩人舉杯暢談一陣，旭仔覺得係時候去休息，就問︰「對了，這裡能洗熱水澡嗎？」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡNMB9gSecpr
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡDKHB9zfzPp
「對不起啊！前段日子這邊下雪，熱水管被弄壞了，現在洗不了熱水澡。」桑吉話︰「你明天騎行也要小心點，路上可能還有積雪。」554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡeS2KJtz4Bc
554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡT3hYoteaI8
旭仔心諗只好忍耐一晚唔沖涼，今晚就只有呢一點唔完美。554Please respect copyright.ＰＥＮＡＮＡCri8QsQ44b
然後按「加至主畫面」