Unfortunately, we had not prepared for the trip very well and it became a “just let’s go” kind of travel plan over a cup of tea. And in two days we found ourselves in Rishikesh.
We arrived at night, after sunset, when the town had calmed down in its characteristic way. We stayed at a small resort on the outskirts of the market area that was situated quite near the Ganga and one could hear its murmur before even seeing it.
The accommodation was modest but comfortable enough, with clean bed linen, fan, and an open window looking directly into the river. There was no need for an alarm clock in the morning, as the morning rays were reflected by the river and hit us right through the window.
Our itinerary included nothing special: no rafting and no other plans. On one day we just spent our time watching a sadhu doing something only for himself, some dogs relaxing in the sun, feeling like owners of this place.

It was common practice for guests to converge in the common room without any intention – there was always one playing guitar, another reading while an old couple observed the water. No one was putting on a show for anybody; everything was natural, just part of the rhythm.
I left without any epiphany. There was a quiet sense of something having gotten its balance re-set somehow. Maybe that is why people say that the river changes you. Or maybe it was just three days of no cell phones.
Not sure if I will ever return to this exact place again, but I will continue to seek out this feeling: water in the darkness of night and the dawn with nowhere to be.